French Food Fight Friday: "Quality partridge should have the fresh smell of an infant’s diaper."

This week on French Food Fight Friday, I'm actually ready to start a fight: against the US government, which, for the most part, does not allow the serving of wild game in restaurants. France, by contrast (vive la différence!) celebrates the preparation and consumption of wild game this time of year. Restaurants have relationships with hunters, who bring their freshly-caught game to the back door, slung over their shoulder, still warm and furry. But in our antiseptic, overly-regulated culture, everything we consume has to be slaughtered and wrapped in plastic before we are allowed to eat it.

Among the rules French hunters abide by:

• "Female birds are to be venerated, not killed"
• "Quality partridge should have the fresh smell of an infant’s diaper" (a clean diaper, that is)

Read the full story on hunters and French diners, and sigh with regret.